You can always count of Thom Browne for a show that is deliciously theatrical and macabre. In past seasons, Browne has channeled Victorian asylum chic-meets-zombie Marie Antoinette, Fellini-goes-to-church, Little Women re-written by the Brönte sisters, and the Messiah in Alice's Wonderland. This year, it was gothic mourning becomes the hospital ward, with skeletal black veiled caps; sensible black suede lace-up booties paired with unsensible fishnets; and a single, black filled-in tear draw onto models' faces (if fashion tears and rap tears mean the same thing—and why wouldn't they—the models have both killed someone and lost someone). Everything was rendered in black, of course, with a touch of Tim Burton whimsy (see the whale-shaped leather handbags).
